Nepal - On a Shoe String Budget
TRAVEL!
In our household the word has magical powers. We consider even the most mundane trip something to look forward to and any hint of anything outstation is always welcomed with glee.
Since 2020 though for a variety of reasons our trips as a family have been limited. The last we travelled together was in Oct 2022 for a trip to Dharamshala and Dalhousie which we had to cut short due to unavoidable reasons.
This year with temperatures in Delhi often touching 50 degrees, we were hallucinating about the mountains and cooler climes. Not holding a regular job makes the financial scenario very dicey and it made me extremely uncomfortable to spend on what can best be described as an indulgence. The partner however insisted promising that we would stick to a shoe string budget. The look of anticipation the kids gave me eventually made me capitulate.
We had often spotted the Delhi-Kathmandu Bus on the Expressway and wondered what that journey would be like. Quick checks online and the journey did seem affordable. Points garnered on a credit card ensured we could book ourselves into a comfortable hotel pretty much in the center of town.
We were also happy to note that INR exchange rates are comfortable versus the Nepali rupee. Not to mention that Indian currency is easily accepted.
The day of the journey began with us taking an early morning cab ride to Majnu Ka Tila in North Delhi from where our bus was to start. The bus started on time, well give or take a quarter of an hour since its after all just Indian Stretchable Time.
We grinned like crazy, the anticipation was over, we were truly on our way. Only for the bus to stop at Ambedkar Terminal a few kilometers down the road. Much to our chagrin we were asked to not just deboard but also told to pull out all luggage including the ones in the hold.
Actually Ambedkar Terminal is where all the formalities including documentation checks, luggage scans happen and it took about an hour and a half for all of us to finally board the bus again and be on our way.
We passed pretty close to home and waved at the towers along with quick prayers for Mom and Buttercup to stay well and happy during our absence.
Snack boxes were opened and munched on happily as the bus picked up a decent speed on the Yamuna Expressway. This happiness though was short-lived as barely a couple of hours later the AC in the bus stopped functioning. The conductor fiddled around but it was no use and eventually we had to open the windows to let the hot air come in and provide some respite from the stifling stillness.
The bus stopped soon after for lunch at a decrepit old Dhaba near Vrindavan and we expected the guys to be able to get the AC repaired during this time. It was not to be though and an alternate bus was called in from Delhi. This caused a further delay of 3 hours as we waited at the Dhaba. Cold water and ice creams our only support.
Eventually the bus did arrive close to 5 pm and with prayers on our lips we boarded again and promptly dozed off in the cool environment. Late at night, nearly at 11 pm the bus stopped at a Dhaba in Barabanki for dinner.
Here I must tell you that unlike other highway Dhabas where fresh food and a decent ala carte menu is available, these Dhabas have set thali menus and you can either opt for a 'saada thali' which is veg or a chicken thali and while the food is fresh enough the quantity and dishes weren't really what the kids or even the husband are fond of. With no other options they ate what they could. The fact that we were carrying a number of their favourite snacks helped keep peace.
Back on the bus which sped through the night on mostly good but some not so nice roads as well. Post Lucknow the roads were not always double lane or well built and I marvelled at the driver's skill. Early morning with dawn breaking the bus stopped at a petrol pump to help people freshen up. Reminded me of my earliest road journeys with Jethu and my cousins when we would do similar halts.
The international checkpost at Sunauli opens at 6 am and by driving without breaks the driver had managed to gain enough time to be able to be at the gates in time. At the border we were again asked to deboard, get our documents checked by immigration and then haul out all luggage for a scan. The border checkpoint look more like a place you might have expected to visit in the 70's or 80's muddy, sludgy, dingy looking building with paint peeling off. Couldn't fathom why the governments on both sides can't spare some money and attention to spruce up the place.
Eventually the bus entered Nepal and after a brief stop for money exchange and breakfast (the option was kaala chaana and boiled eggs which we demurred from) we were on the road to Kathmandu. Must mention at this point nearly 7:30 am the idea was that we should be reaching the capital by late afternoon, 4 pm at max. Thanks to non existent roads and a two hour long jam we eventually reached Kathmandu at 9:45 PM. We trooped out of the bus dead tired and took a cab to our hotel. A quick fresh up later we had our first decent meal of the journey at the Hotel restaurant...with among other things our first plates of Nepali momos.
Momos have become pretty easily available on the roads of Delhi NCR being nearly as visible as the golgappa and chaat walla however the taste and texture of a Nepali momo is miles above the sad Delhi counterparts. Aarini's friend Z had told her to have infinite number of momos and we took his advice very seriously ensuring that we had those delectable dumplings at almost every meal thereafter.
After a good night's sleep divided into boy and girl camps we woke up to a good appetite for both food and sightseeing. We walked out of the hotel in search of interesting breakfast options and landed at a cafe called French Creperie. The sound of anything French is always music to the ears of both dad and daughter and sonny boy likes everything Didiya likes except corn.
The breakfast though filling was average and we felt we could have chosen better. The plan was to see the SAARC HQs and the Narayanhiti Palace both of which were within 2 kms and it being a pleasant day we chose to walk using Google navigation. The walk was through a very touristy market hence we made frequent halts to checkout wares and earmark stuff we would want to take a closer look at.
The SAARC HQ gates were closed as was to be expected but Mowgli found his happiness in staring at the building and the flags. We spotted the Garden of Dreams on the way as well and decided to visit it another time.
Narayanhiti Palace - the most modern of Nepal's many palaces and the seat of power of the last reigning dynasty the Shahs, stood inside a large garden complex. Turned into a museum presently 38 of the palaces 52 rooms are open to public viewing and gives a detailed view of the life and times of the royalty.
Apart from the formal palace, the grounds also had smaller more intimates spaces carved out for the royal families to live and gather in. One such beautifully planned space was the home made by King Birendra for his immediate family. On the outside the building looked like an old Nepali temple, on the inside the small inter connected rooms gave the feeling that here was someone who was keen to keep his family close. The King's bed chamber had a small wicker bed made for his pet German Shepherd Jeet who slept in the same room and a drawer for his arms and ammunition.
I felt a trifle sad for those long gone people thinking about the kind of scare they lived in all the time of being betrayed by those closest to them. No photography or phones are allowed inside hence we couldn't capture the amazing cars and chariots that the kings garage showcased including a gold trimmed one gifted by the Empress of Great Britain.
One of the last buildings we saw was a replica of the place where the massacre of 2001 took place and it was a very somber experience to stand at those very spots and think what might have gone on in the mind of the royal family that June morning.
Walking out of Narayanhiti we felt it was time for lunch. The walk through the Palace had taken up close to three hours and helped us build a pretty good appetite once again. Lunch at a nearby restaurant with momos, chinese food and chilled beer and shakes was very satisfying.
During this time we also realized that our debit and credit cards are not getting accepted at the various establishments. Initially we had not worried about it but now as we were fast spending the limited cash we had on us, things were starting to look uneasy.
Any which way we thought we could surely find an alternative in these days of connectivity and headed back to the hotel for some rest while Parry went off to meet someone he has been connected with online for over a decade.
Thamel the place where our hotel the Potala Guest House is situated is a very interesting place, with street upon street of curio shops making it a mini paradise for tourists and shoppers. Within the short time we stayed there, we walked through the many streets and marveled at all that was on display. ducking into shops with ancient curios and fierce looking masks upon masks on their walls, one could feel the history and mysticism speak to us directly.
One must visit on my list had been the Pashupatinath temple which I had also visited as a child alongwith my grandmother and extended family. My paternal family are believers of the Shakti cult and visits to the many Jyotirlings was very desirable. While I am not really religious, Shiva is my favourite in the pantheon and I did want to visit his famed temple.
The kids and husband complied with my wish and early morning on day two found us with our Pooja thali in the long snaking line of devotees, without planning or knowing we had landed on the monthly Shivratri day and the mandir was packed. A after a lot of waiting I was awarded a glimpse of the lord and came away happy having asked for his blessings and benevolence.
The money scenario in Nepal is quite peculiar, while Indian currency is easily used and accepted, 500 Rs notes are not so welcome. Also none of the usual Debit or Credit cards work in 95% of the establishments. UPI linkage works for Fonepay (one of Nepal's UPI brands) but not others. Also the ATM's will not dispense money for Indian cards. which essentially means that Indian travellers ought to carry substantial amounts of cash with them.
While Nepali currency is cheaper it really doesn't mean there are any real savings since products cost higher and therefore costs are pretty much at par with India.
Our money situation was becoming alarming and we were contemplating that we would have to spend the remaining days in the hotel since that was one place that was accepting cards but thankfully we found an Indian guy Ahmed who had a beautiful wooden handicraft store in Thamel. He took a UPI transfer from us to his Indian account and gave us Nepali currency, allowing us a sigh of relief and continuation of our plans. In case you are planning a Nepal trip, please carry enough and more cash or traveller's cheques or perhaps Forex cards (we had not checked out that option).
The money situation sorted we went back to being tourists with gusto - The Garden of Dreams, Durbar Square, Swayambhu and Bodhnath Stupa were the other places we visited over the next few days. Each beautiful and unique in its own way. What I loved most about our trip was the absence of incessant hordes in even these UNESCO heritage sites, allowing us to sit and soak in the atmosphere and the vibes.
Many have asked me if the bus journey is doable. It is doable and very economical as well but really wont advise it for anyone above the age of 40. Sitting with legs dangling over long periods of time is not very good for circulation and on top of that the rough ride especially on the Nepal side can be really bad news for back and shoulders.
I must however mention that we did see road repair work being carried out throughout the stretch and am sure the situation will be very different a year or perhaps two down the line. Till then the route from Sunauli border is best avoided.
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